When most people think of North Korea they imagine a dictatorship closed to all outsiders. Surprisingly, it’s actually quite easy to visit. The hardest part is applying for a Chinese visa, as you have to go through China (or Russia) first. Here’s what it’s like to fly from Beijing to Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea.
Air Koryo is the national (and only) airline of North Korea. They used to fly to a surprising number of places like East Germany, Czechoslovakia, and all over Russia but most of these flights have been cancelled due to the fall of communism and the airline being banned in the EU. Now a quick direct fight from Beijing is the easiest way to go.
The check-in and boarding was all handled by Air China employees, even though Air China runs its own competing flight.
I was very surprised to see a rather modern large plane waiting on the tarmac. On my first visit to North Korea seven years ago, we flew an ancient Russian plane with big plush seats and tons of legroom.
That old Russian plane had additional seats that fold down into the aisle, so they can completely fill the plane, passengers all the way across.
Despite all those seats, Sil (who visited even earlier than me – 5 years earlier) said that one of the passengers on her flight was confused when he realized that the seat on his boarding pass didn’t exist. The rows just didn’t go that high. After some discussion among the Koreans, the tourist was given another seat and a Korean man moved to the toilet. That actually worked out pretty well for the Korean – he didn’t even need to leave his “seat” to smoke!
Well, things have changed. No one was without a seat this time and, shockingly, the plane didn’t fill up with cigarette smoke.
I don’t recall having to fill out many (any?) forms last time but now they want lots of information.
They’re most concerned about books that might be illegal and images that might embarrass the leadership. Bibles are strictly prohibited and distributing religious material is a serious crime.
Amazingly, you’re now allowed to bring a mobile phone into the country. Seven years ago I handed over my phone when I arrived at the airport and didn’t see it again until I left the country.
The flight is only a little over an hour but the stewardesses were wonderful, treating everyone to the famous Koryo Burger.
Yummm…
Flying over fields of rice and little villages, we soon landed in Pyongyang.
Seven years ago the airport felt like a military base. In 2015 a brand new terminal was built. It feels positively modern, a sign of things to come on my journey through the Hermit Kingdom.
Eating Snow Around the World 
Hello Justin. Good to hear from you from North Korea. How long will you be there, several days or longer. The photo of the aircraft looks like the American Boeing 7XX something or an Airbus 3XX something. One of the few western looking aircraft they could get I suppose. I wonder how many western tourists do go and visit that country. i am surprised at the various rules and regulations odf the airlines about seating etc. I have the idea that the government airlines would fall short of international standards practiced in most countries around the world and would only fly to communist China. I feel sad for the people who have little to support themselves in their daily lives. Not to elaborate too long on my comments but I wish you and Sil a happy and safe visit to that country. Hope to see you soon back in Calgary after your visit.
Micha
If I’m not mistaken, the plane is a Tupolev Tu-204-100, a Russian twin engine aircraft. Air Koryo received the plane on March 4, 2010. It has 222 seats. More details on the aircraft can be found here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tupolev_Tu-204
Air Koryo used to fly to many cities but now fly primarily to China and Russia. Their other routes have been lost due to EU restrictions, UN imposed economic sanctions, and political disputes with other countries (for example, Malaysia was upset when North Korean officials organized the murder of Kim Jong Un’s oldest brother at the airport in Kuala Lumpur).