Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 3)

Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 3)

This is Part-3 of a trip report from my very first TGO Challenge, a walk across the Scottish Highlands. If you missed the first parts, you can find them here:
Planning for the TGO
Part-1: Torridon to Orrin River
Part-2: Orrin River to Loch Ness

Day 5 – Crossing the Monadhliath
Ault-na-Goire to River Findhorn
09:50-17:20 (7.5 hours), 26 km

It was hard to say goodbye to Ault na Goire and the warm hospitality of Janet and Alec Sutherland. After a very filling breakfast I took my tent down and set off toward the Monadhliath Mountains. Not so much mountains as long, rolling hills, this was perhaps the area that I was most excited to see and also most anxious to get across. In bad weather with rain and fog, navigating through these indistinguishable hills can be notoriously difficult. But what I really wanted to see was the impact of rapidly expanding wind turbine developments. Wind power is a controversial topic in Scotland. In most places it’s thought of as a clean form of power. But in the Monadhliath you can see first-hand how it’s rapidly changing the face of the landscape. Construction and access roads criss-cross the land and heavy machinery thunders by. What’s left of this wilderness is fast disappearing.

Wind-farm construction roads wind their way through the Monadhliath
Wind-farm construction roads wind their way through the Monadhliath

About as soon as I could I left the wind turbine roads and started walking across the boggy, wet moor. At times I had to make large diversions to avoid steep muddy drops into ravines. I counted at least a dozen stream crossings on the ascent, each feeling colder than the last, as I approached freshly melting snow. Yet, it felt good to walk through wilderness, away from the roads and to follow the tracks of deer and rabbit. While it did rain off and on, there was little fog and I found the navigation within my capabilities. In heavy fog it would be quite the challenge!
Continue reading “Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 3)”

Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 2)

Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 2)

This is Part-2 of a trip report from my very first TGO Challenge, a walk across the Scottish Highlands. If you missed the first part, you can find it here:
Planning for the TGO
Part-1: Torridon to Orrin River

Day 3 – The Weather Turns
Orrin River to Kiltarlity
07:15-19:15 (12 hours), 33 km

The first two days of my walk across Scotland were sunny, warm, calm, and really just perfect. It was hard to believe I was actually walking in a place renowned for its heavy rains and violent winds. When I woke up on the third morning of my journey, Scotland decided to give me a taste of the weather it’s famous for.

I awake to cold mist and drizzle
I awake to cold mist and drizzle

Rain, mist, wind, more rain. This change in the weather coincided with my first true track-less walking of the trip. As I followed the Orrin River downstream to the Orrin Reservoir, I enjoyed taking out the map and practising my navigation skills. The Scottish Highlands are a great place to sharpen your navigation capabilities. Features such as hills are often rounded without distinct points, making them difficult to distinguish from one another. Often, the best way to navigate is to follow waterways (burns, creeks, rivers, etc.) up over the hills then connect with a new waterway to find your way down the other side.
Continue reading “Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge (part 2)”

Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge

Walking across Scotland – the TGO Challenge

I love long walks, especially when they take you right across a country from one coast or border to another. That’s the idea behind the TGO Challenge. Design your own route starting on the west coast and finishing at the North Sea, get advice from experienced Scottish hill walkers, and start walking. This isn’t my first country-crossing journey on foot but it is my first time hiking in Scotland and I was very grateful for the wise advice on such things as where to find beautiful camp spots and where I might want to avoid wind-farm construction.
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Scotland’s TGO Challenge

Scotland’s TGO Challenge

In just a few days I’m heading to Scotland to participate in an annual event where some 300 challengers attempt to cross the country on foot, each following a route they’ve designed themselves.

Each year The Great Outdoors Challenge is hosted by The Great Outdoors Magazine. It is a challenge, rather than a race. The goal for each participant is to walk from the west coast to the east coast across northern Scotland on foot in two weeks. No motorized transport is allowed, with the exception of taking a ferry across large lakes such as the famous Loch Ness. What makes this event especially interesting is that there’s no one defined route. There are many possible starting and ending points and you can choose any combination of trails, jeep tracks, forested glens, boggy moors, and remote highlands that you like.

Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness Photo credit: wikimedia.org
Urquhart Castle on Loch Ness.   Photo credit: wikimedia.org

Scotland is notorious for cold, wet weather, especially in May. This year is shaping up to be quite a challenging one with heavy snow still falling and steep icy snowfields remaining on the high peaks. At the moment, the forecast for Lochnagar, one of the high points on my route, is “snow turning to rain” with “severe gales”.
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Surviving the Nepal Earthquake

Surviving the Nepal Earthquake

We’ve just returned from Nepal, safe and sound, but it was a close call.

We were in the historic town of Bhaktapur, just a few miles from Kathmandu. Bhaktapur is (or was) full of beautiful old brick buildings and monuments. Many of them looked as if they were about to crumble, even before the earthquake. Here’s what happened and how we survived…

Brick buildings fall to pieces
Brick buildings fall to pieces

We’d just finished a late breakfast and were about to exit a narrow alleyway when Continue reading “Surviving the Nepal Earthquake”

Belize Whitewater Jungle

Belize Whitewater Jungle

There’s a cool river wandering through the dense jungles of Belize. It’s call the Moho. And it has a personality disorder. One minute calm and serene, barely moving, the next it suddenly drops over and unseen cliff and erupts into chaotic white water.

Sil and I spent four days canoeing this gem of a river as part of the “Ultimate Adventure” tour with Island Expeditions, definitely the highlight of the trip.
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Maltese Falconry

Maltese Falconry

The Maltese are passionate about two things: fireworks and shooting birds. Walk between any two villages and you’re sure to suddenly hear BANG-BANG-BANG! In fact, many species of birds are in danger of disappearing from the five islands that compose the country. But things are changing and some Maltese are starting to protect its avian citizens.

Malta Falconry Centre
Malta Falconry Centre

Earlier this week we had the opportunity to visit the fantastic Malta Falconry Centre. The centre exists both to protect birds of prey and also to educate people on how to care for them. It makes sense that wildlife conservation in Malta would start with falcons. The islands used to have an abundance of falcons and, in fact, when the Holy Roman Emperor granted Malta to the Knights of St John in 1530, the price was one of these revered falcons per year.

The first thing that happens every morning at the centre is weighing in. Birds of prey are very sensitive to how much they weigh – too high and they won’t fly, too low and they are hard to train (it’s hard to listen when you’re too hungry).

Weighing in
Morning weigh-in

The centre has not just falcons but many different kinds of birds of prey.
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From Sunday Roast to Lasagne di Spinaci in 3 Easy Steps

From Sunday Roast to Lasagne di Spinaci in 3 Easy Steps

It’s an age-old question. How do you get to enjoy hearty meat pie, creamy gruyère fondue, and crisp lemon gelato all in the course of a few short weeks? That’s what we set out to discover as we travel from Oxford to Zurich then twist through the Alps into the Lakes District of Italy. Here are some of the culinary treasures we uncover.

Oxford Castle, bacon breakfast sandwich, sunday roast
Oxford Castle, bacon breakfast sandwich, Sunday roast

It’s hard to beat a breakfast bap stuffed with bacon. Crunchy bread loaded with crispy, salty bacon. Continue reading “From Sunday Roast to Lasagne di Spinaci in 3 Easy Steps”

Bangladesh Slums Alive with Music

Bangladesh Slums Alive with Music

In December my good friend Charles and I travelled to a very unlikely vacation hotspot – Bangladesh. Here’s just a taste.

Walking through a crowded slum in the city of Chittagong, we’re amazed when a little kid starts singing with a voice far more powerful than we would ever have expected

While exploring another impoverished slum, a talented singer invites us into her home to perform a traditional song

Rock Climbing Road Trip

Rock Climbing Road Trip

There’s nothing quite like a road trip. You get to see so much more than when you travel by plane, or at least you see it at a much more relaxed pace. If that’s true, then a rock-climbing road trip must be one of the best kinds of road trips. You stop in a few select beautiful spots for a few days, you explore the broad landscape looking for shapes and contours that appeal to you, then you zoom right in on the smallest of details. Ah, that’s it, you exclaim! A tiny ridge of textured rock that you’d missed before. Now that you see it – now that you feel it – you’re able to get over the crux of the route you’ve been working your way up (and continually falling off) for the last half hour. Continue reading “Rock Climbing Road Trip”